Many moons ago a reader wrote: "It's fair enough for you to slag off food, wine and furniture, but when you turn your attention to the personal qualities of host or hostess, you overstep the boundaries of good behaviour."

Depends on what those "personal" qualities are I guess. At Nant Ddu Lodge we had discovered the personal touch right away on dropping in one Sunday morning on our way home from another hotel, just to see what Nant Ddu was like and - lo! - this charming white-haired gentleman in the hall (he's got to be one of the family who own this place) immediately made us drop-ins feel welcome.

So here we are back again, this time to stay. We've got one of their smaller rooms - I'd been told this when I booked, but that's what happens when booking late at a hotel as popular as this one. As I've said before, I'm a last-minute Annie, always have been.

Although box-like, the room has everything we need except a view. On balance I'd prefer a view other than the flat zinc roof directly outside our window, but we console ourselves with views of the forest beyond and, beyond that, of grazing sheep.

Downstairs, everything is painted in cheerful colours. It's all very modern with planked floors and vibrant squares of artwork on the terracotta walls. The restaurant is packed with people and the buzz of conversation is - let's use a phrase I usually avoid - life-enhancing.

Only grumps could fail to enjoy this laid-back atmosphere. A very blonde and cheerful woman is bustling around - her name is Mary and she doesn't miss a trick. "Are you enjoying yourselves?" we hear her ask, in motherly tones, the young lads sitting at the table behind. Then she turns to us.

It's not elaborate food - that wouldn 't be appropriate in a place like this - but everything on the menu sounds most inviting and I really can't decide. "Oh, do hurry up," says my husband, who adds that he's starving, the poor thing.

"All right then," I say, but I won't be pushed and continue to have a dither or two - I want it all, I really do.

Starving husband opts for smoked haddock and sewin fishcake with chilli jam, while less-starving me wants red onion, artichoke, basil and mozzarella tart please. And next? "Char-grilled pork loin, brandy sauce, roast red onions and crackling," says husband, a born decision-maker. I choose something so unlike me that, after Mary has gone, I have second thoughts.

We eat at pine tables in a softly-lit room. The food's enjoyable, the atmosphere jolly. There's a large family party at the next table, having the time of its life. Well, so are we.

My tart is delicious; so is his fishcake. He pronounces his char-grilled pork and accessories to be very tasty. And what have I got? Well, it's Cajun chicken and barbeque sauce . . . and it takes me straight back to Louisiana.

For puds we have one summer pudding and one pancake. I love pancakes, and this one's large with loads of sweet sauce. "And your pud?" I ask . . . oh, my goodness, where is it? "I really enjoyed that," he says. We linger over coffee in this warm and happy place.

Breakfast is almost the best bit. There's a fantastic help-yourself buffet - cold meats, cheese, croissants, bagels, various types of bread, crumpets, warm waffles, yogurts, hard-boiled eggs . . . plus a continuously operating DIY toaster.

It's all so appealing that even my husband doesn't yearn for eggs and bacon. As I've said before, the test of any hotel is: would we want to come back? Here, the answer is yes - not just because it has a spa but because of the warmth and attention to detail of the staff.

Essentials
Nant Ddu Lodge Hotel, Cwm Taf, nr Merthyr Tydfil, Powys (01685 377088, www.nant-ddu-lodge.co.uk), has 28 rooms. Paddy Burt paid £89.50 for b & b and £54.55 for dinner for two. Total: £144.05.

Room Service by Paddy Burt (Enigma Publishing) can be ordered directly from the publisher at a special price of £9.50 including p & p. Enigma Publishing (020 8874 8285, fax 020 8874 9325, email Enigma Publishing), 249/250 Merton Road, London SW18 5EB
Paddy Burt welcomes feedback from both hoteliers and readers. To send her an email, use the link at the top of original article (link provided below).

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